Somewhere you are always a foreigner. This is what I feel like everyday since living in Thailand. At the first glance this country seems to be chaos at its best. The first time I came here, I was overwhelmed by all the impressions, scents, noises, the heat and traffic. In May last year I did my first trip to Bangkok, in the middle of the hot rainy season.
Meanwhile I began to see a system in this turmoil of people and electric cables everywhere (haven`t yet found out how to put them under the ground). There are some things that never change like the employers of your favourite massage saloon and the menu of that little cute restaurant around the corner but Thailand is always in movement. Where you bought yesterday those fancy shoes at a street market today you get crispy chicken. I put some things together I learned loving here in a list:
1. Food
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| market in Krabi Town |
I am absolutely obsessed with this cuisine. Fresh fruits like ananas, mango, pomelo, pomegranate and guave are the best snack or dessert you can have. The streets are full of people offering the best Thai dishes with fresh ingredients. My favourite is Som Tam, a spicy papaya salad with roasted cashew nuts and sometimes salted egg. Never thought healthy food could be so delicious. When we order at a restaurant here, we automatically get a weak version of their herbs and spices because otherwise we would cry over our plates. Yep, also this has happened two or three times. Damn, how can anyone in this world eat so spicy without spitting fire?
2. People
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| man waving back in Thonburi (Bangkok) |
Thai people alway smile - that is the cliché. It is often right but not always. Like you cannot say that all Germans are punctual and hardworking. Thais often have no idea what they are talking about, particularly when it comes to English. But even when they do not know the answer, they always smile and keep the attitude. I have never seen anyone really arguing or getting angry. Keep calm and be Thai. I do not imagine myself that I will understand Thai origins one day but everyday I go on learning about them. Their fashion taste is terribly kitschy! In the Skytrain I found all my childhood heros assembled. Imprinted on bags, shoes, shirts, iPhone cases and even jeans: Winnie Poo, Hello Kitty, Angry Birds and the Smurfs. Do not dare to believe these are clothes belonging to children. Nope, adult women in business outfits carrying bags with Hello Kitty in glitter.
Lady Gaga would probably call them fashionistas and Karl Lagerfeld would vomit.
3. Prices
The price level in Thailand is compared to other Western countries really low. Currently the exchange rate is 1€ = 44Baht. It has been at 39THB once but the political protests at the beginning of the year led to devaluation of the Thai currency. Nutrition, mobility and communication costs are inexpensive. For example a Thai dish like Pad Thai or Tom Kha Gai costs about 60-80THB (1.50-2€).
All lifestyle products with a label on it are as expensive as in all other countries. Nike, Sony, Apple and H&M have not lowered their prices for this country. We use to go to an international supermarket in our part of the town. They offer many European products and most important - bread and muesli.
I need my German breakfast, just cannot start my day with fried rice. These imported articles are very high-priced. One container of Granola muesli costs 200THB.
But I will not complain because we have the choice between living simply like a Thai and save money or lashing out on dairy products.
4. Weather
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| sunset in Krabi |
I have sunny weather everyday. Who can say that from his place of residence? I do not constantly have sun all day long but at least one time a day the rays touch my face and shoulders. It makes such a huge difference to your body, mind and soul when you live in a country where it is warm to hot.
The heat here is humid and makes you sweat almost all the time. We adapted the Thai behaviour and do every outdoor activity slower and let us time. That saves a lot energy.
Water is suddenly not a boring beverage but your constant companion. On the islands you have the sea nearby for refreshment, in the city the air condition.
Even if it is too hot sometimes, I would never change with the rainy cloudy and cold weather in Germany which causes too bad thoughts and forces you to stay inside your house.
5. Massage
Did you ever treat yourself a massage? Back in Germany I never did. Nobody can afford a one hour massage with hot stones for 100€. Thailand is the massage heaven. I do not want to imagine my life without this wonderful treatment once a week. These women are so good in touching the right spots to make me go to Nirvana. In their hands I let myself go because I trust them. They are all educated in a massage school and all good saloons have a certificate at their wall.
For about 300THB you get a whole wellness vacation in one hour.
6. Buddhism
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| Wat Arun at the Chao Phraya River |
What makes the people here so calm and peaceful is their religious belief. Buddishm is the theory of Buddha and the circulation of life. Reincarnation is the main part of this theory. You collect karma throughout your whole life on earth and at the end he checks your account whether it is enough good in it or not. If not, you may end up as a spider or poor. That is the main reason why they always try to be friendly and polite. Deeply rooted in the Thai nation, this religion makes this place worth living in Asia. In every society there are black sheeps but overall here are less robberies and attacks than somewhere else. Corruption is another story.
7. Simplicity
I attended Thai language courses for beginners to get some basic knowledge for smalltalk. My teacher is a cute smart woman who conjured a smile on every pupils face after a long working day.
She said "Thai language is simple, just like they think. Sometimes they do not finish their sentences or leave out letters ("lo" for kilo). German is so complicated with all that grammar. Maybe that is why they also think so awkwardly." This opened up my eyes. It is not like they do not have bureaucracy but all that shit every person needs to do one time; tax, car purchase and apartment search, is much more simple than in Europe.
8. Scents
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| frangipani blossom |
Thailand gives you scents to smell you will never forget. As soon as I exit the plane and touch Thai ground, I can already feel it in the air. The smell is a mixture of spices, herbs, rain, heat and over all frangipani. This little bloom grows on trees and they are all over the city. They give a fresh, sweet almost lemon fragrance, it moves me to tears. Because then I do have so many gorgeous memories in my mind about long evenings at the beach, cocktails, hanging around the pool and overlooking my stunning new hometown.
9. Entertainment and Nightlife
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| advertisement at Siam square |
In Thailand you never get bored. There is so much to do, buy, see and eat that you are occupied all day long. Around the centre of Bangkok, Siam square, you find three gigantic shopping malls next to each other. In those malls are cinemas, aquariums, ice-skating fields, water fountains and food courts in addition to countless shops and boutiques. Games for cellphones are usual entertainment for Thais in the metro. They are addicted to screens from tiny mobile phone screens up to large advertisement screens. If it does not move, it does not entertain. Nightlife in Bangkok is fantastic! Most clubs are around the Soi 11 at the Sukhumvit. Closing time is officially at 2am but the party goes on in secret clubs which are often at the same time cathouses. In the streets VW buses transform to pubs with a wide range of inexpensive cocktails. What you should try when you come here are rooftop bars! Nearly every tall building has it on top. Cocktails at the 25th floor and higher - no words needed.
10. Mobility
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| Tuk Tuk |
Mobility in Thailand is awesome. You have the choice between taxis, tuk tuks, motorbikes, buses and metro. It costs so much less than in Europe. A taxi from the airport into the city is never more than 400-600THB (10-12€). Be aware that they put on the taximeter - otherwise they tell you a price which seems low at a first glance but this is a delusion. Tuk tuks and taxis are on the same price level. The cheapest method is the motorbike. Cheapest and most dangerous one. I trust those guys because they drive always and estimate the traffic situations better than me but if there is traffic jam and they do a slalom around the standing cars, I prefer a safer taxi.
The list goes on but it always comes back to these items. I hope I can stay here as long as I like which may end up forever. Sawadee kha!
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